Exciting news from the Human Investing office:  In the year 2017 alone five babies will be born into the families of Human Investing (2 girls and 2 boys already, with 1 boy on his way)! For myself and the other new parents in our office, 2017 has already been a year of much joy, little sleep, ‘dad jokes’, cliché parenting sayings and a bunch of finance nerds trying to figure out how to care for their little ones and save for their college education. Here’s what we came up with. First the cost –

In recent years, the average rate of inflation in college costs has been about 5%.

Source: National average cost data © 2017 The College Board, “Trends in College Pricing 2016.”

Parents like my wife and I and others in the office may have different goals and philosophies on how much we would like to cover for our child’s education expenses - whether a dollar amount, like $50k, or a percent of the education expense. Whatever the philosophy, we understand the need to save. But what is the best vehicle to do so? Here are a few of the most common options and some important considerations to take into account when saving or choosing an account type:

• 529 Savings Plan: 529 accounts allow you to set aside after-tax contributions that grow tax free. The balance can be used for qualified higher education expenses, such as tuition, room and board, and books. States may offer 529 plans to residents, often with tax breaks or additional incentives - check your state here.

• Coverdell Education Savings Account (ESA): ESAs allow you to set aside after-tax contributions that grow tax free. Account value can be used for expenses not exclusive to college. Unlike 529 plans, there is flexibility to use ESAs for qualified education expenses from Kindergarten through Graduate School.

• Roth IRA: The Roth IRA can be used as a combination retirement account and educational savings vehicle. Your after-tax (Roth) contributions can be invested for retirement purposes and college expenses can be withdrawn with exemption to early withdrawal penalties. Additionally, the value of your Roth IRA will not hurt chances for financial aid eligibility as it is not considered assets on the Free Application for Federal Student Aid (FAFSA).

• Uniform Gifts to Minors Act and Uniform Transfer to Minors Act (UGMA/UTMA): The original college savings account, UGMA/UTMA assets are transferred to the child’s account and are invested on their behalf until he or she reaches age 18 – 21 (defined by state). At this time, the beneficiary can use dollars for whatever they wish. With a UGMA /UTMA you can realize $1,050 of gains tax-free per year. Note: UGMA/UTMA is in the child’s ownership for FAFSA purposes.

* This data is provided by www.savingforcollege.com and is subject to change. The numbers provided reflect 2017 regulation and will fluctuate with time. Please contact a trusted tax professional to understand exact tax implications.

The consensus: If you are looking to maximize saving for college and want to make it a family affair (any one can contribute) then the 529 is the best option. If you are not sure about college for your child but would still like to save for their future, then other great options like a UGMA/UTMA may be beneficial. Want to talk about what type of account is best for you or share baby stories? Let’s talk, Human Investing is here to help.

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Two Things to Consider When Managing Your Employee Stock Options.

Stock options are an interesting benefit. Instead of giving you actual shares of company stock, your employer gives you the “option” to buy a certain number of shares at a particular price. While options can be a tremendous benefit, they are frequently mismanaged causing you to either take too much risk or to miss out on most of the benefit. If you’ve been given employee stock options there are a couple of things to know.

First, there are a different types of stock options: Non-qualified Stock Options (NQs), Restricted Stock Units (RSUs), Incentive Stock Options (ISOs), etc. Second, the value of your stock options may differ from owning actual shares of stock. Understanding how options pricing works is key to getting the most from this potential benefit.

For this post, I’m going to focus on non-qualified stock options. Non-qualified stock options have a few moving parts that can have a major impact on your ending value - or whether there is any value at all.  When an employer, such as Nike or Intel, gives non-qualified stock options, they come with a particular grant price.  The grant price is the price at which you have the “option” to buy your shares of stock. Having an understanding of the stock price vs. the grant price will help you maximize the value and minimize your risk of loss.

The grant price is the key difference between owning actual shares of stock and a stock-option. Unlike owning actual shares of stock, your options value is based on the difference between the grant price and the actual stock price, not the value of the stock price itself. Therefore, if the actual stock price is greater than the grant price, your options have monetary value. If the stock price is below the value of the grant price, then your options have no value.  For example, if you have 1000 shares of Nike options with a grant price of $65 and the actual stock price is $58, then that particular grant would be worth $0.

Here are two common mistakes I see employees make:

Mistake #1 – Selling Too Soon

Until the stock price exceeds your grant price by a significant amount, you will have only a partial benefit. For example, let’s assume the following:

• You were granted 1000 shares

• The share price is $60

• Your grant price is $57

Since the stock price is $3 more than your grant price, your options would have a value of $3000 ($3 of value per share x 1000 shares). While $3000 is a nice amount of money, it would only equate to 50 shares of actual stock ($3000/$60=50 shares). If you sell at this point in time you would effectively lock in a value of 50 shares instead of the full 1000 that you were given. As the stock price increases, your effective number of shares increases as well.

To show how this works, let’s assume the stock price increases to $80/share. How do your 1000 options look now? The new stock price of $80 gives you a value of $23/share ($80 - $57 = $23). Your new options value is $23,000 ($23 x 1000 shares). At this price, you’d have the equivalent of 287.5 shares ($23,000/$80=287.5).

In addition, you will notice that while the stock price went up from $60 to $80 in our example (an increase of 33%), your option value increased from $3000 to $23,000 (an increase of 667%). This is a phenomenon that is unique to stock options and one that can provide a lot of upside benefit. However, as you’ll see below, it can also expose you to more risk than you might think.

Mistake #2 – Holding on too long

For those of you who’ve seen some nice growth in your options over the years, you are possibly taking a lot more risk than you need to.  As you saw in our previous example, option value can rise significantly greater than the price of the stock itself. The flip side is that if the stock price declines, your options will go down in a greater percentage than the stock itself. Again, this is caused by the fact that you were not given 1000 actual shares of stock, but the “option” to buy 1000 shares at a price of $57/share.

To further demonstrate this, let’s use the reverse of the example above. If the stock price goes from $80 down to $60, a person who owns actual shares of that stock would lose 25% of their account value. However, since you have a grant price of $57 your options would go from $23,000 down to $3000.  That’s a loss of 87%!

Summary

Without a strategy for managing your stock options, you could be leaving a tremendous amount of money on the table and/or exposing yourself to a lot of unnecessary risk.

There’s no guarantee how any stock will perform in any given time-period, but with a proper strategy you can maximize your option value and minimize your risk, helping you stay on track with your financial goals.

If you would like help putting a strategy together to make sure you’re maximizing your options, give us a call at 503-905-3100.

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During my time leading our participant education efforts for the retirement plans we manage, I’ve received all kinds of questions. Questions ranging from, “How do I start a 401k?” to “What’s the best way to consolidate my student loans?” However, a question I’ve gotten more frequently is:

“If I have the ability to save more, should I pay off my mortgage or should I put more towards retirement saving?”

I feel like this question has been on people’s minds as our economy has made a nice recovery since 2008. For people I’ve talked with, the question has come up due to a change in financial circumstances such as; an inheritance or some form of windfall, the sale of a home, or a recent bonus. Regardless of the circumstances, these individuals have been sitting on this money in low interest rate saving accounts and are looking for ways to have their money work harder for them. While there is no all-inclusive answer, I’ll do my best to outline some of the pros and cons of paying off your mortgage/making additional payments or saving more toward your retirement account.

Your home.

You will not change the value of your home by contributing more to the mortgage, or even paying it off. If your house is worth $350k, it’s always going to be worth $350k until the market determines otherwise. When you put more money into paying off your house, it’s not doing anything to change the value of the house…you’re basically putting money into an illiquid asset that you can only access when you sell the home or take a HELOC.

Additionally, your house is most likely financed at a low/tax-deductible interest rate. Your interest rate might be in the 4.5% ballpark. With your tax deduction, you’re most likely paying a real interest rate of 3% to 3.5%. That’s pretty cheap money. If interest rates were much higher (like in the 8% to 9% range), then it would be a different story and paying off your mortgage might make more sense.

Investing.

When putting money into a long-term retirement account and investing appropriately, you’re building an asset that can grow at 9% per year, using the S&P 500 as a benchmark, over a long period of time. By putting money in, you’re actually giving those dollars the ability to grow over the years. Unlike putting money into your mortgage, your deferrals will directly affect the type of return and the growth of that account over time. So, the more you put in, the more you will get out in the end.

Example: Keep in mind that nothing you do, except making updates to your home, will increase the value of it. Compare that with an investment/retirement account. Let’s assume there are two different people…one has been putting a fair amount of savings in their retirement account, the other has contributed a much smaller amount. For the sake of the example, let’s call them Kelly and Chip.

Kelly has a $110k account. Chip has a $10k account. It’s 2014 and they are both invested in the Vanguard Target Retirement 2040 fund. The return on that fund in 2014 was 7.15%.

So, to start 2015 and without additional savings, Kelly now has an account worth $117,865 and has gained $7,865 just on return alone. Chip now has an account worth $10,715 and has gained $715 on return alone. Both are good, but Kelly is setting herself up to have a suitable retirement account. By the way, if we assume that neither Kelly or Chip contribute another dollar to this account forever, in the year 2040 (assuming an average 7% rate of return per year) Kelly will have an account value of about $640k, while Chip will have an account worth about $58k. That’s a huge difference! Personally, I’ll take the investment accounts over paying off my mortgage a few years earlier.

Regardless of your views on this specific question, know that if you’re wrestling with anything retirement account related feel free to reach out by phone at 503.905.3100 or email 401k@humaninvesting.com anytime. We would love to connect with you!

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